Weltreise_Myanmar_InleLake007

Inle Lake

Hallo liebe Freunde,

Wo wir auch waren und wen wir auch kennenlernten, immer wieder hörten wir die gleiche Empfehlung: “Die dreitägige Wanderung von Kalaw zum Inle Lake war das Beste was ich gemacht habe!” Auch preislich war die Tour voll im Budget mit 30-40$ in denen zwei einfache Unterkünfte und Essen schon inklusive war. Doch es sollte alles anders kommen…

Schon am letzten Abend in Bagan fing langsam an meine Nase zu laufen. Am nächsten Morgen wachte ich erkältet auf. Somit entschieden wir uns gegen das Trekking und waren heil froh, dass es kein Problem war, nicht in Kalaw auszusteigen, sondern einfach weiter bis zum Inle Lake zu fahren, ohne Aufpreis. Bereits oben in den Bergen, nahe Kalaw, fing es an zu regnen. Was wir zu diesem Zeitpunkt nicht wussten, es sollte noch 2 Tage lang durch regnen. Selbst Einheimische waren total verwundert, da es im Januar nie regnet. Zum Glück blieb uns die Schlammschlacht auf der Wanderung erspart.

Wer mit dem Bus zum Inle Lake fährt, wird meist schon im Bus aufgefordert den Eintrittspreis von 10$ zu zahlen. Denn der zweitgrößte See Myanmars steht seit 1985 unter Naturschutz und schützt somit eine artenreiche Tierwelt. Der See ist umgeben von bis zu 2000m hohen Bergen, was eine tolle Atmosphäre schafft. Bei dem Anblick ist dann auch schnell die beschwerliche Anreise durch die Serpentinen vergessen.

Kaum aus dem Bus gestiegen, wurden wir von anderen Backpackern angesprochen, ob wir uns mit ihnen das Taxi teilen wollen. Prinzipiell immer eine super Idee, aber dank MapsMe wussten wir das alle Hostels, Guesthouses und Hotels fußläufig zu erreichen waren. Wir wählten ein außerhalb liegendes Hotel in der Hoffnung auf mehr Ruhe. Das La Yaung Thoon ist ein schönes Hotel mit geräumigen, sauberen Zimmern, richtig gutem Frühstück und kostenlosem Fahrradverleih. Yan kümmert sich aufmerksam um jedes Anliegen seiner Gäste. An einem Morgen waren wir die einzigen Gäste. Da wurden wir zum Frühstück mit einem Chickenburger überrascht. Meeeggaaa!

Aufgrund des Regens und meiner Erkältung verbrachten wir 2 Tage im Hotelzimmer und gingen nur zum Frühstück und Abendessen vor die Türe. So blieb genug Zeit um mal ein paar Fotos auszusortieren und den ein oder anderen Beitrag zu schreiben.

Essensmöglichkeiten am Inle Lake im Örtchen Nyaung Shwe: Wer auch mal wieder europäisch Essen möchte ist bei One Owl Grill und Asiatique richtig. Beide Locations sind hip und im “Schäbig-schick-look” eingerichtet. Die Happy Hour ist von 3-19 Uhr. Richtig gutes burmesisches Curry bekommt man im Thanakha Garden.

Als die Sonne zurückkehrte kamen wir aus unserem Hotelzimmer herrausgekrochen und erkundschafteten das Örtchen. Wir wollten unbedingt eine schöne Tour auf dem Inle Lake machen und fingen an die unzähligen Anbieter zu vergleichen. Letztendlich bieten alle Veranstalter die gleichen 2 Touren an. Eine große Tour (ca. 24 000 kyat) und eine kleine Tour (ca. 22 000 kyat). Wir entschieden uns für die kleine Tour und haben später festgestellt, dass wir doch die große Tour abgefahren sind. Um die Kosten für uns noch etwas zu senken, fing ich an andere Backpacker auf der Straße anzusprechen, ob sie eventuell die Tour mit uns teilen möchten. Schon beim zweiten Versuch konnte ich drei nette Mädels aus Deutschland überreden. Sie kamen aus Kiel, haben gerade ihr Abi bestanden und reisen jetzt erstmal ein halbes Jahr durch Asien. Perfekter Zeitpunkt für so eine Reise 🙂

Die Tour begann früh morgens. Warm eingepackt, mit heißem Kaffee in meinem Thermobecher (ich liebe meine Klean Kanteen) saßen wir zu fünft hintereinander im Longtailboot. Ich weiß ich wiederhole mich, aber ich bin jedes mal so begeistert vom Longtailbootfahren. Ich liebe den frischen Fahrtwind, wie die Sonne in den Wasserspritzern des Bootes tanzt und zu beobachten wie die wundervolle Landschaft vorbeizieht. Gedanken kommen und gehen und es tut so gut dafür wieder Zeit zu haben.

 

Nyaung Shwe liegt etwas entfernt vom Inle Lake, deshalb fuhren wir etwa eine halbe Stunde durch einen Kanal, der größtenteils durch Felder führte, bis wir den See erreichten. Die Landschaft ist herrlich. Ringsherum majestetische Berge die an diesem Morgen die Wolken über dem See festzuhalten schienen, aber dadurch eine nicht weniger interessante Stimmung zauberten. Kaum am See angekommen, sahen wir die ersten Fishermen. Sie postierten für uns Touris direkt in der typischen, akrobatischen Haltung. Uns kam es etwas komisch vor, deshalb machten wir kein Foto. Bei einem anderen Boot konnten wir beobachten, wie ein junger Mann ein Foto von einem Fisherman machte. Direkt fuhr sein Bootsführer zu dem Fisherman damit dieser Geld für das Foto verlangen konnte. Wir warteten und fotografierten später richtige Fischer die nicht nur posierten sondern wirklich fischten. Ihre Technik mit einem Bein zu rudern ist auf der Welt einmalig.

Die Menschen die hier auf dem See leben haben einfache, auf Pfählen gebaute Holzhäuser. In der “Garage” neben dem Haus steht – statt einem Auto – ein Longtailboot bereit. Oft sah man auch Hauskatzen. Widersprüchlich… Katzen die auf dem Wasser leben ;).

Der erste Halt war bei einer Silberschmuckschmiede die auch auf dem See lag. Statt einer Alarmanlage hing eine Waffe ungesichert, einfach in der Ecke und war für jeden “Depp” zugänglich. Da schluckt man erst mal.

Im Anschluss besuchten wir einen Markt und einen Tempel. Wir deckten uns mit leckeren Samosas und anderen frittierten Köstlichkeiten ein. Mittlerweile kam die Sonne wieder richtig raus und der Fahrtwind war eine Wohltat.

An einer Weberei wurde uns gezeigt wie aufwendig Lotusseide hergestellt wird. Sie wird nirgendwo anders auf der Welt hergestellt, nur in Myanmar am Inle Lake. Die sehr feinen Fäden befinden sich im Stängel der Lotuspflanze und werden durch knicken und auseinander ziehen freigelegt. Für 1 Meter Stoff werden etwa 10 000 Stängel benötigt. Unglaublich interessant.

Im Laufe der Tour besuchten wir noch eine Schreinerei und konnten bei der Zigarrenherstellung zusehen.

Im Dorf Inthein war das Spannendste die Festspiele zum Unabhängigkeitstag (4. Januar) zu beobachten. Die Dorfgemeinschaft versammelte sich auf einem großen Platz auf dem eine Rennbahn aufgemalt war. Einige Kinder standen schon in den Startlöchern. Ihnen gegenüber standen etwa 20m entfernt wieder ein Kind. Wir vermuteten erst Staffellauf. Aber dann wurde den Kindern in der Startposition die Augen verbunden und sie bekamen ein Bananafritter (typische Süßigkeit) in die Hand. Plötzlich der Startpfiff und die Kinder tappten blind los um ihren Spielpartner zu finden. Ein Spaß für das ganze Dorf. Kaum hatte das erste Kind seinen Freund gefunden, musste dieser mit dem Bananafritter im Mund zum Ziel rennen. Sehr witzig!

Den nächsten Punkt der Tour hätte ich gerne übersprungen. Die berühmten Long Neck Ladies, besser gesagt die Padaung Frauen. Sie stammen aus Bergvölkern von Myanmar und pflegen die Tradition schwere Halsringe zu tragen die ihre Schultern deformieren und der Hals dadurch optisch verlängert wird. Schon mit 4 Jahren beginnt das Tragen der Halsspirale die nach und nach verlängert wird. Mir gefiel die Art und Weise nicht wie die Frauen für den Tourismus vermarktet wurden. Sie sahen traurig aus als die Chinesen ihre Selfie Session starteten.

Natürlich gab es auch eine Pagode zu besichtigen, die Phaung Daw Oo Pagode, die fast nur aus einem touristischen Markt besteht. Das Nga Phe Chaung Kloster war früher für seine “Jumping  Cats” bekannt. Springen tun die Katzen zwar nicht mehr aber die Katzen im Kloster zu beobachten machte auch Spaß. Auf der Rückfahrt fuhren wir durch schwimmende Gärten mit Tomaten, Erdbeeren, Gurken,… Es war so ein schöner Tag mit wieder netten Wegbegleitern?.

Nach den ganzen Besichtigungen fuhren wir mit dem Sonnenuntergang im Rücken wieder zurück nach Nyaung Shwe und schauten den Fischern noch zu.

Am letzen Tag ging um 17Uhr unser Bus nach Bago. Um uns die Zeit zu vertreiben gingen wir noch auf den Markt im Dorf und schauten uns noch die Pagode in Nyaung Shwe an.

Und die wilde Fahrt ging pünktlich um 17Uhr weiter. Zum Glück hatten wir dieses Mal einen VIP Bus gebucht, aber….

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Hallo, ich bin Marina und bin fasziniert von anderen Kulturen. Ich reise für mein Leben gern durch andere Länder. Aus dem Grund habe ich beschlossen mit meinem Freund 1 Jahr lang um die Welt zu backpacken und Euch davon zu berichten.

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